Saturday, October 16, 2010

Glenveagh National Park, Donegal



Driving through Glenveagh National Park

Just got back from a day trip to Donegal, a county in the Republic of Ireland only an hour west of Derry.  We rented, sorry, "hired" a car (which I drove--safely--for about 200 yards, before giving up) from the airport and drove to Donegal in pursuit of Glenveagh National Park.  The appeal?  Entry is free. Scenery is jaw-dropping.  No predicted downpours.

Hannah is relatively familiar with the Letterkenny area, so she took us to the birthplace and abbey of St. Colmcille (Colombo).  He was one of the Twelve Apostles of Ireland and founded a number of monasteries, including one in Derry.  His birthplace is marked by a large classical celtic cross that overlooks a beautiful pastoral landscape; it's accompanied by a wishing rock too!
St. Colmcille's birthplace

Then we headed over to St. Colmcille's abbey.  It was built in the 16th century, and is still frequented by apparent followers.  There is an active (well, at least, recently) shrine inside the ruins that's decorated in a variety of [interesting] offerings (rosaries, shoes, mini boxing gloves, etc).  There was a graveyard just next to the abbey that was lined with spectacular juniper trees that were gnarled and handsome.  A holy well--perhaps used for baptisms?--was nearby as well, still holding water, and probably still holy.

The ferruginous wishing rock

Then we headed over to St. Colmcille's abbey.  It was built in the 16th century, and is still frequented by apparent followers.  There is an active (well, at least, recently) shrine inside the ruins that's decorated in a variety of [interesting] offerings (rosaries, shoes, mini boxing gloves, etc).  There was a graveyard just next to the abbey that was lined with spectacular juniper trees that were gnarled and handsome.  A holy well--perhaps used for baptisms?--was nearby as well, still holding water, and probably still holy.
St. Colmcille's abbey
Juniper tree in the graveyard
                                                                          
The holy well
We made an effort to go straight to Glenveagh National Park afterwards, but ended up driving right past the entrance (twice) and along the outskirts of the park.  Lucky for us because the drive was incredible.  We left from rolling hills of pastureland and ended up engulfed in a sea of golden grasses.  The scenery, the colors, the weather...it was too much to handle; it was too perfect.  How lucky we are to be alive and able and aware! We coasted along a lonely road through massive hills of gold and granite rock, stopping for a quick bathroom break.  We wandered around in a field (the grass was quite high, no one could see us) and came across the crumbling foundations of abandoned houses (circa early-mid 1800s?).  It was a quiet and lonely place, but not eerie.  I felt happy to appreciate the hard work that someone had endured to build a house from stone and a roof from thatch that was probably lost in the field where I was standing.   
Rolling golden hills
Abandoned houses

We made it to our final destination around mid-afternoon. Unfortunately we found out that all the trails and interesting attractions (the castle and surrounding gardens) were only accessible by a park bus that cost 2euro/person.  All of us had pounds, and they didn't accept Visa! (note to the park: why don't you take visa you ding dongs?).  Matt and Hannah were kind enough to loan us their only euros which could only transport the two Americans to the other side of the park.  Thank you guys so much!!  We are forever indebted to you (literally).  The drive to the castle grounds takes you along the edge of the a large, clear lake (Lough Veagh), similar to the lake I envisioned at Hogwarts.  Lough Veagh is nearly fully enclosed by towering hills; the same hills that were once covered in oak and birch are now scattered with remains of forest foliage.  The castle itself is impressive, but its history is not nearly as inviting.  Its original owner, John George Adair, was a total douche bag, responsible for evicting nearly 250 families from the homes in the surrounding area in 1861.  Apparently his wife was nicer.  

Walking the grounds of the castle, which included several luxurious gardens, and the surrounding trails, was definitely my favorite part of the day.  Gina and I hiked all the way to the top of a hill behind the castle so we could see almost the entirety of Laugh Veagh, and much of the park itself.  It was a steep walk, but well worth the effort.  I had a nice spiritual connection with someone/thing while I was laying in the lengthy heather and moor grass.  It was lovely to sit so comfortably and absorb the beauty around me.  I felt so honored and appreciative to enjoy a common heritage with such a stunning area.  

Enjoying the view of Laugh Veagh and Glenveagh Castle

                                      


                                    

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